February 2, 2007

day 20: ouch.

la foto più bella
T. Herc. Victor capitals

tutte le foto della giornata (18)
guarda le foto sulla mappa

the day's events:

the wounds 1the wounds 2the 44 bus pulled up to the intersection of A. Algardi and Quattro Venti just as i was about to cross Q.V. and go to the stop as we were leaving for this morning's field trip. i was at the tail end of the group, so we let the bus go by and then ran across the street to catch it. i cut between two parked cars and hit a patch of gravel. i went down under the one car's trunk and seriously scraped up my hands (palm of my right, back of my left). i'm now sanitized and bandaged and back at the centro, and i can feel the bruise forming on my hip. i'm just glad i was clutching my clipboard and notebook so i didn't do anything stupid like stick out my arm and break my wrist--i just wound up bleeding. i suppose these are the battle scars of living in rome.

...or just being clumsy.
not the best way to start off the day's field trip. i thought i was just scraped and would be fine, and i didn't check out the damage until i got on the bus. if i had looked earlier, i may well have gone back to clean myself up. Nick saw my hands and commented on how much i'd torn them up. as we walked from our stop to Isola Tiberina, our first site of the day, i was on the lookout for public fountains. they never seemed to crop up when you actually needed them. upon arrival at the island i asked Alicen for some water from her nalgene, which at least got most of the grime out of the cuts.

also at Tiber Island were our first site reports, from Tulisha and Victoria. and a police boat. and then we left, checking out the Pons Fabricius on the way. then we hit a lot of across-from-but-not-at-the-forum sites, including the ruins by St. Omobono, the temple of Portunus and the temple of Hercules Victor. then i went home and bandaged myself up. ouch.

p.s. the scrape on the back of my right wrist, despite just scabbing over normally, never fully healed. you can still see a little bit of a scar.

February 1, 2007

day 19: forum photos

la foto più bella
arch of Septimius Severus

tutte le foto della giornata (9)
guarda le foto sulla mappa

the day's events:
second trip (of many) to the forum. still a novelty at this point, especially since it was the first time i was armed with my camera. on the agenda was the temple of Castor and Pollux and the Lacus Curtius. we had a dramatic reading by Victoria from that one book that we were supposed to take on field trips with us that some people actually still did have with them at this early point in the semester (i only remember that because i have a picture. oh and because i was sitting on a cold rock. i thought it was just going to be a quick thing and then it turned into like a half hour lecture. so everyone's butts were cold.) like you do.

afternoon was spent in classroom pursuits: prepping for greek and an italian quiz. no fun there.

January 31, 2007

day 18: Alba Fucens

la foto più bella
down a street in Alba Fucens

un menzione d'onore
town beneath the mountains

tutte le foto della giornata (48)
guarda le foto sulla mappa

the day's events:

morning rush hour in Romeah, the journey to Alba Fucens, one of the farther-removed sites we visited on a tuesday field trip. we had a slow time getting out of Rome, since we had to traverse the whole city to get to the autostrada. i took a picture of traffic on the way, which Walsh mocked me for taking. i guess that means by this time i was already sitting at the front of the bus. oh, and i'm glad i took the picture. moving on:

today was our second all-day field trip. the two stops were Alba Fucens and the villa of Horace. there was talk that there may be snow at the site in Alba Fucens (hence the Alba in the name, i presume) but in fact it was sunny and extremely pleasant there. Alba Fucens is pretty high in the foothills, and we could see that it was raining in the valley. i tried to check the forecast before we left. Alba Fucens isn't the name of the modern town, which is Albe. i tried looking that up on weather.com and it just laughed at me. when we got there i realized why. there are approximately 5 buildings in Albe, 1 of which is the site visitors' center, and 2 of which are churches. we were promised a bathroom break when we arrived in Albe, but there was only one toilet in the whole town, so the process took a good long time.
as i recall, Luke and someone else struck out to use the bushes. i got in line for the actual toilet. then Eli and i and maybe Chris decided that using nature's toilet wouldn't be such a bad idea, except as soon as we went to try to find a place, all three people who live in Albe showed up and our plot was foiled. we wound up at the end of the potty line. about 2/3 of the way through they ran out of toilet paper (not a big issue for the men) and we had to figure out how to say "toilet paper" in italian. we knew the word for paper and pointed at the toilet and that got the message across. then on to the site itself.

crypt of the Church of St. Peter...well, actually no, one stop before the site. we stopped at the church of St. Peter which was built on the foundations of the former temple to Apollo at Alba Fucens. the church had been rebuilt after an earthquake which destroyed much of it. we got some time to wander around it, including down into the crypt beneath the altar, which was pretty cool. i was starting to get the hang of using my camera at this point, so i took a couple long-exposure shots down there because the only light was provided by a small window. [see creepy 2-second exposure shot which includes Faceless Alicen.] then the custode of the sight came and turned on the light switch that we didn't know about. kinda ruined the atmosphere.

...wait no, two stops before the site. we also stopped in the amphitheater, which was pretty awesome. got some time to explore there. this panorama shot has a horrendous stitching error in it, so watch out for a redux in the next day or two.

AF amphitheater panorama

Alba Fucensah, the view over the hellhole that was Alba Fucens. i had a photo nearly identical to this one (except i think mine's better) hanging over my bed back at the Centro. it was sometime in March when i looked up and said "hey wait a minute, that's Alba Fucens." =P

[when we got to the actual site] we were split up into groups and had to deduce what our assigned part of the site was. i was stuck in group six, which was assigned letter S on the map. we asked "where are we now on the map" just to orient ourselves and were told: S. we had to watch as the rest of the groups trekked down into the site. after some debate we realized that our building was originally a quite large villa, and we identified the particular types of masonry used. Prof. Walsh came to check on us and we asked if we would have time to roam the site. at first he said no but we told him that we'd be totally cheated if that were the case, and he conceded 15 minutes to us. in that time i ran around and took lots of photos.

mossy rockmosaic remnantdedicatory columncaldarium substructure 1

i wonder if Walsh was just being a dick when he told us that, because we got about a half hour to explore. the photos i took show a lot about how early in the semester it still was. my favorite is the OMGMOSAIC picture. i thought that was really impressive, even though it was about the shabbiest mosaic scrap we ever saw. i also like the artistic moss-on-a-rock shot, and all those people who made fun of me for being artistic can just shove it (see top of post).
by the time we finished presenting our site "autopsies" it was definitely lunchtime. Albe is essentially a dead town though, so Walsh decided it would be more interesting to go down the road a ways to Carsoli and eat there. we acquiesced and piled in the bus. upon arrival in Carsoli we realized there is little or no reason to go there. everything was closed, so it was pretty boring, and all the school children were on their lunch break, free around town. a bunch of middle school boys came and started hitting on the female Centriste. unamused, Luke, the biggest guy in our group and decently proficient in italian went to talk to them. the resulting conversations were pretty hilarious. they decided to try their english skills on us. the boys knew two main phrases: "what is your name?" and "we like pussy." some of their female classmates joined the conversation, and their vocabularies were a little better. one asked Luke why on earth we came to their town. he explained that we were on the way back from Alba Fucens and she gave him this look as if to say "you poor poor soul, i'm sorry you had to come here." Carsoli is a pretty forsaken town, and i really felt bad for some of the people living there (basically everyone except the pervert schoolboys).

Alicen swingingwe had a little more time to kill and Kerry, Alicen, and i walked a few blocks from the main square, through the public park where Alicen tried out the playground equipment. at long last we reboarded the bus and headed for the site of Horace's villa. on the way back we met another group of people. a drunk bum asked us if we were german. i'm not sure why he thought that, but we told him "no, non siamo tedeschi."
ah Carsoli, how i don't miss you at all. onward to the villa (whose exact location i don't know at all. i'd like to geotag my photos, so if anyone has an idea, let me know).
the villa was really quite palatial and impressive, and although only about 1 foot tall in their present state, the remnants of the walls were quite well preserved.
bathhouse shenanigansis that really all i had to say about it then? man, i must have been tired. we got an intro lecture from Fenton, whose humor we were now starting to appreciate. he made the "don't conflate the historical poet and the poet's narrator" argument with a reference to Sting. then we started moving around the site. the tablinum was pointed out to us, which is really awesome as long as we've got the right villa. then to the bath complex, where some general shenanigans went down. then a lovely tour past Horace's toilet. then...
Fons 2after touring the ruins, we went up the hill to a natural spring. that spring may be the famous "fons Bandusiae" that Horace wrote about, if indeed the villa was his. we played around at the fountain for a while...Walsh told us we could drink from the fountain if we wanted, and clearly at our own risk. i opted out of that, but many people did.
i should have drunk it. couldn't hurt, right?
we had a slow, traffic-plagued ride back into Rome, but got back significantly before dinner. i made a run to the enoteca and got wine for dinner and fanta for later. at dinner Alicen, Kerry and i split the wine, but Kerry only took a splash, leaving quite a bit for Alicen and i. oh well, it helped ease along the greek homework afterwards.
at this point i hadn't learned to pour wine without asking. =)

January 30, 2007

days 13-17: indoors

ci sono solo una foto e una pictura per 5 giorni

it's all your fault!rain in rome

the photo is of a message left by (i think) Boss Meg on Nick and Creaser's door. not sure exactly what it referred to.

the picture tells you why i wasn't out taking lots of photos. i think thursday must have been an at-home lecture day, friday no class, saturday kept in by the rain, sunday forza Lazio (0-1 victory over ailing Treviso). monday ?

tomorrow is more exciting, i promise. off to the middle of nowhere and Alba Fucens!

January 25, 2007

day 12: Villa Giulia

c'è solo una foto oggi...
mosaic at Villa Giulia

more etruscan overload continued with a morning field trip to the Villa Giulia. Alicen, Kerry, and i made sure that we got in Walsh's group for the best tour. that museum is fantastic, and it's another one that it's a shame that you can't take pictures in. photography seems to be less enforced in the courtyard, so that's how i got the picture of the triton mosaic.

other awesome stuff there: temple reconstructions, sarcophagus with the couple, and phrygian/etruscan gold tablets. also sala 11, which i returned to much later in the year for my final project.

greek, dinner, chilling later that night? i can only presume.

Tarquinia redux

over the past day i have undertaken a little project, to which i alluded at the end of my last post. as most of you know, i spent a lot of time editing and tweaking my photos so that they looked their absolute best (sometimes even better than in real life). but the photos i took at Tarquinia and Cerveteri were the first ones that i seriously edited, and i didn't have the experience and skill that i had gained some 2000 photos later at the end of the semester. i tried to do some color and exposure correction on my photos from the tombe that were taken in low light without flash (because they had to be, since they were through glass). i did what i could with the limited tools of iPhoto. now i know that i could have done better, and thankfully i still have the original, unedited versions. i've gone back and re-edited some of them, with pretty good results. here is a sampling:


original
Tomba Gorgoneio back detail
2006 edit
Gorgoneio detail redux
2007 edit



original

Tomba dei Bacchanti bacchanals
2006 edit

Bacchanti redux
2007 edit

original

Tombi Cardarelli left side
2006 edit

Cardarelli left redux
2007 edit

i must say i'm really pleased with these results. of course, not everything went perfect. i actually desaturated some of my photos when i edited them in 2006, because they had some nasty yellow hues to them. that resurfaces again in my new versions, but i like the greater saturation, even if it's a bit overblown at times.

Leonesse back redux

and some were not salvageable at all. [warning, geeky photo editing stuff ahead, including histograms and whatnot.] the best results came from photos that were light but lacking contrast. photos that started out darker just couldn't be saved to a high standard of quality (usually they would look too red or orange). i found out that the reason for this was that those photos were severely underexposed in the blue range:

since the curve for blue was essentially off the dark end of the scale, there was insufficient color data to stretch across the whole spectrum and not make it look ugly. unfortunate, but i'll have to stick with my old edits of those photos.

so those are the results. you can view all 20 of the Tarquinia redux photos here.

January 24, 2007

day 11: tombs

la foto più bella
Mike and Francesca survey the tombs

i menzioni d'onore
Tomba dei Leopardi banquet scene Tomba della Caccia e Pesca

tutte le foto della giornata (58)
guarda le foto sulla mappa

the day's eventsthe second tuesday marked the first real all-day city course field trip. that also meant our first bus ride with Fabio. after breakfast we all made our way out to the bus. i found a seat somewhere near the middle-back. before we could leave we had to do the emperor countoff...oh wait, that was the first time we did it. Klaassen read off the list of emperors as they were assigned to people and then we did a couple practice runs, which sucked. eventually we got through it once and headed out.

if i remember right, i think i had a pretty calm busride, mostly looking out the window as i listened to an episode of TWiT on my ipod.

upon arrival at Tarquinia we entered through the gift shop/biglietteria and stopped just on the other side to get an introductory lecture from Maas. the only problem was that it was so blasted windy that we could barely stand up straight, let alone hold our notebooks or pay attention. he cut it short, thankfully, divided us into groups of three (i was with Andrew and Creaser) and sent us off to check out the tombs.

down to the tombsour group apparently just wasn't fast enough, because every single tomb that we went to already had somebody in it, and only one group could fit down there (comfortably) at once. we tried a few of the tombs near the entrance to the site with no luck, then thought we would fare better if we went down towards the end, but that didn't work either. eventually we just decided to wait for any groups ahead of us. that at least meant we got to stand inside the shelter at the top of the stairs rather than face the gale outside.

Tomba della Fustigazione erotic imageTomba della Pulcella stone bedview from the Tarquinian plateauwe did ultimately get around to 12 tombs out of some 15 or so that were listed on our checklist, which wasn't bad. we made sure to see all the highlights. nobody's trip was complete without checking out the porn on the wall in the Tomba della Fustigazione. on a more highbrow, archaeological note, we also made sure to check out some fancy carving at the Tomba della Pulcella. it was fun walking down the side of the hill to it, and then you almost had to run back up just to beat the slope and the wind. there was also a lovely view of the countryside from over there.

after being rounded up from all over the site, we piled back on the bus for a short drive into the town of Tarquinia, to go to the archaeological museum. i think our appointment to enter was at noon, and we got there before that. since we were all pretty seriously chilled through from the wind, Maas took us all to a bar and bought everyone hot chocolate or cappuccino. i opted for the hot chocolate, which wasn't too bad of a decision. it was very rich, but most of all it was warm.

view from Tarquinia antiquities museumthen we headed across the street to the museum. it was like etruscan overload. we got our whirlwind introduction to bucchero, terra cotta sarcophagi, and most important for me, etruscan writing. i think we did split up into three groups, and this was where we learned that (all other matters aside) it's best to go with Walsh on a museum tour because he'll actually point out the most useful stuff. anyway, i at least remember him giving the bucchero talk. there were no pictures allowed in the museum (shame, because they had some awesome stuff, including the famous sarcophagus with the man holding the etruscan scroll), but i snuck one that i figured nobody would mind while in a non-exhibit walkway on the second floor. oh, i also learned a little bit of italian from PK when somebody set off the alarm by leaning too far into the reconstructed tomb exhibit, and she had to apologize to the custode. how had Barbara not tought us "mi dispiace" in the first two classes? ah well.

it was past 1pm when we left the museum, and we were starving. we ran back to the bus to collect our lunches, and then had to find a place to eat them. some people just descended on bars, carrying their bag lunches with them. if it were later in the semester and i'd known better, i would have done just that (making sure to buy something from the bar so as to not piss off the owner). instead i thought that seemed a bit too rude and ate outside with PK and Alicen (and Kerry, were you there? i don't know. sorry!). i nearly froze my hands off eating my prosciutto cotto sandwich and trying to hold everything in place with my juice box.

walking through the Cerveteri siteCentristi in the tumulothen it was mercifully back to the bus for the ride up to Cerveteri. again we got a brief intro on arrival at the site, and then were turned loose. we were allowed to roam as we pleased, no groups to stick with or real assignment except "go see things." sometimes lots of centristi crammed into a single tumulus, sometimes we split up, sometimes we climbed in or on top or around them. Sick Nasty made a particularly death-defying leap into a flooded tomb, yet managed to keep himself and his camera dry.

view from a tall tomb topi heard there were some cool ones down near the end of the site, and went off to try to find those. Jetta was tagging along, and because i had got some bad first impression of her i tried (and succeeded) to ditch her (sorry, Jetta!). that didn't turn out so great for me because shortly after i did that i got completely butt-lost. i had a map, which should have helped, but i couldn't get oriented because everything in the whole damn place was round. i tried to climb one of the tumuli to get my bearings, and that didn't help much either (except i got a nice photo out of it). i ran into the edge of the site, but couldn't find any way back to familiar territory. i knew it was getting close to when we were supposed to meet back at the entrance, and i was starting to panic. i don't know exactly how i got back (i know i made a complete circle more than once) but i managed to find the main path without needing anyone to come search for me.

the rest of the day was pretty calm. bus ride home, collapsed for a while, had dinner. after dinner i went down to the lobby and did some photo editing. Alyssa came by and saw what i was doing and we talked photography for a bit. more on that photo editing process in the next post...